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When compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end names. However, situated high among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” says a proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their small shop achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary triumph.